Culture Talk

Seeing India's heritage sites without the crowds: what I've learned in 30 years

I have travelled across India for work for most of my career, and I try to add one heritage site to every trip. A few things I wish someone had told me earlier, especially for visitors coming in the cooler months from October onwards.

Go at opening time. The Taj Mahal at sunrise is a different place from the Taj at noon. This is true for almost every famous site. Tour buses arrive mid-morning.

Choose the second-famous site. Everyone goes to Agra and Jaipur. Fewer go to Hampi, with its boulders and ruined Vijayanagara temples, or to the Khajuraho temples, or to Hampi's quieter neighbours Badami and Pattadakal. You will have whole courtyards to yourself.

Hire a licensed guide at the gate, not someone who approaches you on the road. Ask to see the ID card.

Dress for temples. Shoulders and knees covered, and shoes off where required. Carry socks for hot stone floors.

Please add your own tips, particularly for the south and the northeast, which I know less well.